Portencross Castle
Nestled along the scenic coast of North Ayrshire, Scotland, Portencross Castle stands as a testament to the region's rich heritage. With its ancient stone walls overlooking the Firth of Clyde, this historic fortress holds stories that span centuries.
Depending on the source, people in the earliest days knew it as ‘Arneil/ Arnele/Ardneil’ castle; when the de Ross family owned it.
A year after the battle of Bannockburn, fought in 1314, King Robert the Bruce gifted the estate to Sir Robert Boyd of Kilmarnock. It's believed the Boyds built Portencross.
castle probably mid to late 14th century to replace an existing small castle on nearby’ Auldhame, also known as Auldhill, where excavations have shown an Iron Age settlement once stood.
Portencross Castle has witnessed many significant events throughout its history. It is also believed that several Scottish monarchs, including Robert the Bruce, visited the castle during their reigns. The castle's strategic location made it an important site for maritime activities, and it played a role in transporting goods and people across the Firth of Clyde.
Folklore says that Arneil castle, as it had been known, may have been used as the last resting place of many ancient kings of Scotland who lay in state there before being conveyed to their final resting place on the island of Iona.
The Boyds were steadfast devotees of the Scottish crown, and consequently, the castle was used as a significant place of safety during times of conflict.
In the 16th century, Alexander Boyd and his allies demonstrated their unwavering loyalty to Mary, Queen of Scots, and therefore supported the Spanish effort to overthrow Elizabeth I from the English throne.
Interestingly, the UK Hydrographical Office says that the waters surrounding the castle may conceal the wreck of a Spanish galleon. In 1740, divers allegedly recovered 20 cannons from the sea near the castle, yet the galleon remains undiscovered.
Over the centuries, Portencross Castle with its thick stone walls, prominent battlement and arrow slit windows underwent several architectural styles of the medieval period and beyond. The original tower house structure was expanded to include additional living quarters, storage rooms, and defensive features.
The Boyds made several modifications during their ownership of the castle by adding attic rooms which were reached by extending the existing spiral staircase.
A Day in the Life of the Laird.
The life of a laird in 14th-century Scotland was a complex tapestry of duty, power, and privilege. From overseeing his estate to fulfilling military obligations and maintaining social ties, the laird's role was multifaceted and vital to the functioning of medieval Scottish society. Despite the challenges and responsibilities, the laird enjoyed numerous luxuries and a status few could rival, making his life both demanding and rewarding.
The day of a laird in 14th century Scotland began early, as the first light of dawn pierced the heavy drapes of his chamber. His servants, often young boys from the estate, would gently rouse him from his slumber. After donning his morning attire, the laird would partake in a simple yet hearty breakfast.
One of the most notable features of Portencross Castle is its Great Hall. This grand room served as the castle's heart, where the laird and his family would gather for meals, meetings, and celebrations. The Great Hall's impressive fireplace and vaulted ceiling are still intact, offering a glimpse into the castle's former grandeur.
Breakfast typically consisted of bread, cheese, and ale or mead, with the occasional inclusion of fresh fruits and cured meats from the estate's larders.
Following breakfast, the laird would attend to his grooming. Despite the era's limited amenities, a laird would have access to a basin for washing, and a barber to manage his hair and beard. To him by his servants would bring his clothing, made of wool and adorned with the finest dyes and furs to him.
The laird's responsibilities were vast, involving the management of his estate and the well-being of those who lived and worked on his lands. Each morning, he would hold a meeting with his stewards and bailiffs to review the estate's accounts, oversee agricultural activities, and address any issues among the tenants. The laird had to be well-versed in the affairs of his domain, from crop rotations and livestock health to the collection of rents and taxes.
During these meetings, tenants brought disputes or reports of wrongdoing to his attention. As the local authority, the laird acted as judge and jury, resolving conflicts and dispensing justice as he saw fit. This role was critical in maintaining order and ensuring his subjects remained loyal and productive.
A significant portion of a laird's day was dedicated to military matters. In the 14th century, Scotland was frequently embroiled in conflicts, both internal and with neighbouring England. The laird was expected to maintain a small private army, ready to defend his lands and serve the king when called upon.
Feasts were grand affairs, showcasing the abundance and hospitality of the laird. Guests would be treated to multiple courses of roasted meats, fish, vegetables, and pastries, all accompanied by copious amounts of wine and ale. Entertainment might include musicians, dancers, and jesters, ensuring that the laird's hospitality was remembered and appreciated.
As evening fell, the laird would retreat to his private quarters or join his family in the great hall for supper. This meal, though simpler than the midday feast, was still substantial and provided an opportunity for the laird to relax and converse with his loved ones.
After supper, the laird might engage in leisurely activities such as reading, listening to music, or playing strategic games like chess. These moments of repose were essential, offering a semblance of peace in an otherwise demanding life.
The castle remained a seat of the Boyd family until the roof was destroyed by a storm in 1739 and they consequently moved to a mansion house in Portencross village.
Local fishermen used the castle for storage and operative purposes for a while until it became nothing more than a ruin.
The estate and castle were bought by William Adams, a wealthy potato grower, in 1900. (Ayrshire potatoes have a long history in Scotland and to this day are well known for their quality and flavour.) He partially re- roofed the castle in 1910, and his son, also William, took over from him in 1940.
During the 1980’s the government sold much of the land it had purchased using compulsory purchase orders, to build Hunterston power station. This included Portencross village, but not the castle.
The Friends of Portencross Castle, established in 1998, is a dedicated group of volunteers formed in response to the news that the castle was to be sold, with first refusal being offered to village tenants and local farmers. The FOPC has played a crucial role in the extensive restoration work that has been undertaken. ensuring that Portencross Castle is preserved for future generations. Their commitment to preserving the castle's heritage has resulted in the stabilization of the structure and the creation of an educational centre for visitors.
Today, Portencross Castle stands as a cherished landmark, attracting visitors from around the world. The castle's picturesque location and rich history make it a popular destination for tourists and history enthusiasts. Guided tours offer insights into the castle's past, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the stories of the Boyd family and the events that shaped the region.
I truly appreciate the privilege of walking my dog along the coastal path, breathing in the beautiful briny air, admiring the magnificence of the castle, and, of course, the breathtaking views over the Firth of Clyde. There are still many potato farmers in the area, and, by the way, Ayrshire potatoes are still regarded as some of the best potatoes in the world!
While wandering around the castle, with its tiny but perfectly formed beach, I am in awe of the surrounding countryside and the spectacular island of Arran.
A lover of history like me finds it extremely easy to imagine how it could have looked in the past. I suspect very little has changed compared to many other places in the UK. Also, I suspect a time traveler would recognise the area immediately. Inclement weather only adds to the mystery and majesty of it all.
Portencross, like Arran, is most definitely one of my happy places.
Jacqueline Heron Wray 2025
References
Comments